The sixth-generation BMW 5 Series, built from 2010 to 2017, is one of the best-value executive saloons on the used market. It offers genuine luxury and a superb chassis for far less than a comparable new car. But the F10 is a complex machine, and buying the wrong example can turn a bargain into a four-figure repair bill. This BMW F10 buyer’s guide walks through the models worth seeking out, the faults that matter, and the checks to run before you hand over any money.
Which BMW F10 Should You Buy?
The F10 range is broad. At the sensible end sit the four-cylinder diesels, the 518d and 520d, which return excellent fuel economy and suit high-mileage drivers. The six-cylinder diesels — the 525d, 530d and 535d — are the sweet spot for most buyers: smooth, torquey and durable. Petrol buyers can choose the 528i and 535i, while the 550i pairs a twin-turbo V8 with serious pace and serious running costs.
A 2014 facelift (the LCI) brought revised lights, a tweaked grille and updated iDrive. LCI cars command a premium, but a well-kept pre-facelift car with full history is often the better buy. Whatever you choose, a factory-level reference such as the BMW 5 Series F10 service and repair manual (2010–2017) is worth having from day one — it covers every trim, every system and every service interval in the range.
The N47 Timing Chain: The Check That Matters Most
The four-cylinder diesel in the 518d and 520d is the N47, and its timing chain is the single most important thing to check on any F10. Unlike most engines, the chain sits at the back of the engine, against the bulkhead, so replacing it is a major job that requires the engine to come out. A worn chain rattles on cold start, and if it snaps, the engine is usually destroyed.
Listen carefully on a cold start. Any metallic rattle from the rear of the engine that fades as the car warms up is a warning sign — walk away, or budget for a chain replacement. BMW revised the chain and guides during production, so later cars are less affected — but no N47 is immune, and neglected oil accelerates chain wear. If you are buying a 520d, this check alone is worth more than any other in this guide.
Petrol Engines: N20, N55 and the N63 V8
The 528i uses the N20 four-cylinder turbo petrol, a strong performer that can suffer from timing chain guide wear and oil leaks from the rocker cover and oil filter housing. The 535i uses the N55 six-cylinder turbo, widely regarded as one of BMW’s better modern petrol engines. It is generally reliable, though the electric water pump, thermostat and oil filter housing gasket are common wear items.
The 550i’s N63 twin-turbo V8 is the one to approach with your eyes open. Early N63 engines are known for high oil consumption, valve stem seal wear and injector problems. BMW issued a customer care package for affected cars, so check whether the work was carried out. A 550i can be a wonderful car, but only buy one with a thick folder of receipts and a recent specialist inspection.
Diesel Engines: The N57 Six-Cylinder
The six-cylinder N57 diesel in the 525d, 530d and 535d is a far safer bet than the four-cylinder N47. It is smooth, powerful and generally long-lived, with many examples passing 200,000 miles on original internals. The main things to watch are the EGR cooler — subject to a BMW recall on many cars, so confirm the work was done — and the injectors on very high-mileage examples. Check the diesel particulate filter regenerates properly: a car that has only ever done short trips may have a clogged filter, an expensive fix best caught on a long motorway test drive.
Gearbox, Suspension and Steering
Almost every F10 uses the ZF eight-speed automatic, one of the best gearboxes in the class. Shifts should be smooth and almost imperceptible. Any harshness, flaring between gears or delay engaging drive points to trouble. BMW calls the gearbox fluid a “lifetime” fill, but specialists recommend changing it around 60,000 to 80,000 miles, so ask whether it has been done.
Standard cars ride comfortably; M Sport models are firmer. Some cars have optional adaptive dampers or rear air suspension, and both can be expensive when they fail — listen for knocks over bumps and check that the car sits level. Any notchiness in the electric power steering needs investigation, and uneven tyre wear can reveal worn bushes or poor alignment.
Electronics, iDrive and Electrical Faults
The F10 is packed with technology, and most of it is dependable, but electrical niggles are common. Test every function: iDrive controller and screen, parking sensors, cameras, heated seats, air conditioning and the head-up display if fitted. A flat battery is a frequent complaint on cars that sit unused, and a weak battery can trigger a cascade of spurious warnings; note that a replacement battery must be registered to the car. Water in the boot, usually from a blocked drain or a failed seal, can damage the battery and control modules mounted there, so lift the boot floor and look for damp.
Your Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist
Use this list on every car you view, and do not skip it because the car looks clean:
- Cold start the car yourself and listen for timing chain rattle or smoke from the exhaust.
- Check the oil level and condition, and look for leaks around the rocker cover and oil filter housing.
- Inspect the service history — look for regular oil changes at sensible intervals, not just main dealer stamps.
- Test drive at motorway speed and check for smooth gear changes, straight tracking and no vibration under braking.
- Scan for fault codes with a diagnostic tool, and confirm there are no warning lights on the dashboard.
- Check the tyres for uneven wear and confirm all four match in brand and size.
- Look underneath for oil leaks, damaged undertrays and corrosion on brake lines.
- Verify the MOT history online and check that the mileage matches the history.
- Confirm recall work, especially the diesel EGR cooler, has been completed.
- Budget for a pre-purchase inspection by an independent BMW specialist — it is the best money you will spend.
Running Costs: What to Budget
A 520d is the cheapest F10 to run, with strong fuel economy and reasonable insurance, but a timing chain job can cost several thousand pounds, so factor that risk into the price you pay. The 530d costs more in fuel and tax but is the most dependable engine in the range. The 550i and M5 sit in a different league for fuel, tyres, brakes and insurance. Whichever model you choose, set aside a contingency fund for the first year — wear items such as the water pump, thermostat and suspension bushes will need attention eventually. Doing routine work yourself with a proper manual keeps those costs manageable, and the same approach applies across the range: owners of the earlier E60 generation, covered by the BMW 5 Series E60 service and repair manual (2005–2010), and the smaller F30 3 Series, covered by the BMW 3 Series F30 service and repair manual (2011–2019), follow the same principle.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the BMW F10 reliable?
Yes, with the right engine and history. The six-cylinder diesels are the most dependable; the four-cylinder diesel needs careful timing chain checks and the V8 demands a bigger budget. A well-maintained F10 is reliable; a neglected one is not.
Which F10 engine is best?
For most buyers, the 530d: strong, smooth, economical and durable. The 520d suits high-mileage drivers on a budget, and the 535i is the best petrol choice.
Should I buy a pre-facelift or LCI F10?
LCI cars from 2014 have updated styling, improved iDrive and minor reliability revisions, and cost more — but a pre-facelift car with full history and a clean inspection is often better value.
How much should I pay for a used BMW F10?
Prices vary widely by engine, mileage and condition. Always price the car on its condition and history, not just its age, and leave room in your budget for immediate maintenance.
A good BMW F10 is one of the finest used cars you can buy. The difference between a great one and a money pit is almost always the checks in this guide: inspect the car cold, verify its history and walk away from anything that does not add up.
